Ultimate Guide to Japanese Cosmetics

Japanese companies are now known all over the world for their good quality and highly effective, simple but impressive cosmetics. But when did it all started? It was dated way back in Japanese history when the chronicles called kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) as well as nihon shoki (the second oldest book of classical Japanese history) was released when we first recognized that using makeup had been existing already during the ancient times. The pigment red can be seen from clay figurines created in the Kofun period during the year 300.

While other types of cosmetics such as rouge and powder were brought from China and Korea, the first Japanese lead-based facial powder was made by a Buddhist priest during the year 692. According to stories, the Japanese empress was so impressed by her creation when it was given to her. Makeup was continued to be used by aristocrats in these early times.

During the Heian period (794-1185), when Chinese influence was losing its peak, Japanese cosmetics started to reform and have its own originality and distinctiveness. Women started to wear their hair long and straight, powder their faces white like ivory, remove their eyebrows then paint them a bit higher on their forehead. During this time they have also started to blacken their teeth. 

From the beginning of Edo era (1600-1868), basic etiquettes were the main focus. Japanese women were taught the essential ways of using cosmetics. According to professionals, the palette consisted of three basic colors: red (lipstick or lip rouge, nail polish), white (face powder), and black (teeth-blackener and eyebrow pencil).

The traditional rouge was made from safflowers which were used as lipstick, blush, and nail polish. The adequate way is to apply a thin layer of lip color which was seen a symbol of refinement but towards the end of the Edo period, there was a fad for a heavier application of lipstick for the more lustrous look. Due to the demand for safflowers, they became so expensive that it was said the flowers were worth its weight in gold. During this time, only the rich and powerful can afford the said rouge.

The white powder applied on the face is called oshiroi. It is carefully mixed with water for the perfect consistency and is very hard to attain. Adding in too much water can lead to an uneven application, while too little can make the application crack and fall off. The arduous task is done almost every day in order to achieve the perfect complexion which was also considered in Japan as "the essence of a beautiful woman."

Pitch black teeth were regarded as beautiful which may be contradictory to the current trend of having sparkly whites. This Japanese tradition which was called ohaguro was seen as an unusual beauty ideal back then when Westerners visit the country, it was described as destroying the beauty of women and making them look unsightly. In spite of criticisms, this custom still continued until the end of the Edo period.

During the Meiji era, the traditional ways of applying cosmetics mentioned above have started to change. In the year 1870, a law was officially declared banning the practice of eyebrow shaving and the use of tooth-blackening. Most Japanese women started to halt the custom when Empress Meiji herself discontinued the use of it in 1873. 

It was in 1877 when the people started to have worries about the safety of using lead-based face powders. The concern came into being when lead poisoning began infecting a lot of Kabuki actors. The use of them was banned in the later years and lead-free face powders were invented and sold in the market at the same time. However, many actors opposed the ban due to the belief that lead-based oshiroi (face powder) made their faces look more beautiful compared to products without it.

Through Taisho era (1912-1926), when Western influence was at its peak, Japanese traditional ways of applying makeup had begun to fade. The reason may be due to being inspired by celebrities on the big screen. Modernity started to envelop the country and Japanese women had to follow the change. Thin eyebrows, droopy eyes with black liner, and thin lips started to be a trend. This look was very similar to the flapper style in Western countries.

After the war in the '50s, Japan was greatly influenced by American popular culture. In the 1960s, movies on the big screen had a pinkish overtone, this caused pink-colored makeup to be popular all over the country. Thick eyebrows and lifted eyes with the use of gel eyeliner became well-liked. Makeups such as eyeshadows, fake eyelashes, lipsticks, foundations, and other products were imported to Japan. Many kinds of cosmetics became widely available and Japanese women became aware of the diversity of skin color. They started to part from the Edo period's 3 traditional primary colors of red, white, and black.